what a day… Got up and headed north into the Hill country
today. Sadly I discovered it isn't named after the Hill family and
there were no "Hills" to be found… We drove for about 2 hours in heavy
traffic towards Kandy. Traffic was particularly heavy due to the four
day Poya (full moon) weekend. This is the most significant Poya of the
year and is also called the Vessak. It is the clebration of the birth
and death of Buddah. As we headed north it was interesting to see
multiple trucks loaded with the identical assortment of furniture,
typically a wardrobe, a dressing table with a tall mirror, a few
plants, a tall fan, and a dresser. Ravi explained that it is the
wedding season and the trucks were taking all the dowries to the
families and that they had very standard items such as what we were
seeing. Another interesting thing about the road is that you come to
small villages that have specialty items such as cashews (mmmmm), cane
weaving, and blow up toys (like you see at a fair, but all sizes up to
small inflatable boats and pools). Rather than distributing their
specialty it is all lumped together into a stretch of half a kilometer
so that when you get out of your car you are bombarded by 10 shop
owners within the 100 meters of where you stopped. I'm not sure why
they wouldn't spread out and diversify. Once we got to the Elephant
orphanage we had missed the procession down to the river but saw large
piles of evidence all along the road/trail down to the river that
there had been grass fed elephants in the area very recently… Once we
got to the river there were about 40 to 60 elephant ranging in size
from babies to very large males. There were two huge bulls who were
chained to the shore as they were "in musk" and had to be kept away
from the others. We watched them cleaning each other and playing and
having an all round great time. One quite sad thing was the elephant
from Jaffna who had lost her front leg just below the knee. I'm
surprised she survived at all and I suppose she has a fairly good life
now but you can imagine how hard it is for her to walk with all that
weight and no front leg. I'm surprised they haven't made a
wooden/titanium leg for her, perhaps it is just too much weight… Later
they led the elephants away to be fed and brought down a very large
and old male with large tusks. He is completely blind and had to be
led on a chain, again very sad to see.
We had lunch at the orphanage and I tried grilled cashews for the
first time, very dangerous indeed! So good! Charles ordered a beer but
was told that it was Poya and no alcohol could be served so he ordered
water. The waiter came back a few minutes later and offered "tea" in a
teapot and all. He declined but it was interesting…
It was a wonderful time but the drive was hectic and we saw a bus get
run off the road (he was driving like an idiot himself) and almost go
over into a rice paddy, scary! I think I might take the train next
time I go up that way. We were told that we should go on to Kandy as
well but really it was a long enough day as we got back to Colombo
around 4 in the afternoon.
Vesak is quite interesting too. All the streets are decorated with
Buddhist flags and lights and fancy lanterns made of crepe paper and
wicker. I'm going out on a Vessak tour tomorrow with Kumari to see all
the lights and lanterns, apparently it is quite a spectacle.