Rob and Cher's Sri Lankan Adventure

This is a blog about our work, travel, and life in Sri Lanka.

Tuesday, November 14, 2006

The Ankara Riot

Some of you may have heard how I ended up in a riot in Ankara - what a beautiful city, full of culture, warmth, great food and great people. Here is some video of the riot I captured with my digital still camera, so the quality is poor....

Saturday, November 04, 2006

Batumi


Torn down?
Originally uploaded by Rob@SFU.

As you may have heard I was stuck in Trabzon for several hours. Finally the airport closed and we were left alone in a small reception area. When the security guards were leaving we thought we would be asked to wait outside and even the cabs were all gone so it would have been cold and miserable. Luckily he said we could stay inside. I put on a DVD and we watched Master and Commander and Gajane fell asleep. I had given her my blanket and pillow and she was amazed that someone would travel with such luxuries. She was even more amazed when I opened my suitcase and had quite the assortment of food! At one point a man walked in said something to me in Turkish, I asked if he was our driver to Batumi and he indicated that something was going to happen at 5 AM and something about Istanbul. he then walked out. by the time I got my shoes on and went running out to say that I wasn;t interested in spending that time waiting in the airport he was gone. I felt bad that Gajane was sleeping and that I hadn't woken her up to deal with the guy and sat there feeling rather frustrated that we would have a few more hours to wait... then half an hour later a different guy walked in and was obviously looking for us, I was SOOOOO relieved. So these two guy started to argue with Gajane about why we didn't indicate ourselves to him when we got off the flight. I said to him "Did you SEE ME???!!!!" and he said no, so that ended the conversation... So we're speeding along in a mercedes going rather fast and we learn that this is their third return trip between Trabzon and Batumi that day (well, it was now the next day - so within 24 hours). They are extremely tired and I can't sleep as I don't want to wake up in skid... I felt a bit better that we were in a mercedes and that it was fairly safe until I realized most of the vehicles coming at us were big trucks, traveling as fast or faster. At one point I was just dozing off when I was jolted from my seat as we were stopping rather suddenly and there was a lot of shouting. I then saw the red and blue lights in the rear view mirror and realized we were being pulled over. The two drivers got out and were gone for some time. Finally a police officer showed up and wanted to speak to Gajane. He was showing her a piece of paper that showed the ticket was 250 TYL, about $150. She didn't have any money on her and was saying she didn't. I had the money but didn't want to say so in front of the police. Finally we realized he was letting us off because we were foreign guests, so we were on our way. The drivers kept switching off and would be talking loudly and hitting each other, I assume to stay awake. Finally at one point I suggested I drive as I was the most awake of the group, despite having had little sleep the previous two nights! Once we got to the border the fun began, Gajane has a Belarus passport with a visa to the USA. The guards did not like this and were looking at each and every page of her passport under a bright light. Eventually the called me forward and had me stand in front of the bright light, I still don't know if the light was to blind us so we couldn't see who we were talking with or if it was to clearly see us. Either way the liked me and stamped me through easily. The real fun began when the car was being processed. It was only permitted to cross the border once a day and as it had been used a couple of times the day before they didn't want to let it pass. Eventually after much yelling we were permitted to leave. The drivers were very aggressive with the guards which surprised me as I thought they would end up in jail, however it worked and we were let through. When we arrived at the hotel it was just getting light out and we had time to check into our room, shower, and a bit of work on my presentation (baed on my talk with Gajane as to who was attending) and it was time to leave. My keynote was at 12:40 and I was exhausted. The talk went really well and I had some great comments. The chair said it was the best presentation he had seen at these meetings because I had provided numerous questions to ask when implementing ICT rather than giving the "answers" which can be completely taken out of context or were inappropriate in other contexts. I also demonstrated 5 unique ICT solutions that we had used at SFU that they enjoyed. It was a long talk and by the end I was mentally and physically exhausted. We walked to lunch which was chicken kiev and very enjoyable. After the big meal I was very sleepy and had a very hard time staying awake through the afternoon. I did find myself waking up here and there and felt bad as I was in the second row! The room we are in is part of the Georgia National University, which is located in an old palace. It is right on the Sea and it very opulent. The room reminds me of the Orpheum Theatre in Vancouver with a beautiful chandelier and velvet curtains and comforatble seats (maybe that is why I fell asleep, it reminded me of my dad at the Orpheum when we would see the VSO,,,,). After the conference we went onto a giant ferris wheel that is on the campus and gave us an incredible view of Batumi. We then went for a long walk as a large group along the sea and a few people went wading into the sea and enjoyed the cool water. We got back to the hotel where I was to collect my phone I had left on the registration desk that morning and I had my first run in with the Russian mafia. The owner of the hotel, who drove a brand new HUGE Hummer, complete with fancy mag wheels and blackened windows was called to the desk to give me the phone back. This guy swaggers up, leans on the counter while saring at me. Gives me a look of "okay, what is this worth to you", slowly pulls out his cigarettes, and lights up. Takes a puff and blows the smoke at me. Then he starts questioning me on the phone, what is the model number, (I have no idea), what are the phone numbers in it??? This is all through the front desk staff translating, and they are very uncomfortable. This guy is about 6'6 and 300 pounds. I tell them that there is a photo of my wife on the screen and she is wearing an orange shirt... still he won't give it to me. I then explain that I can show him a photo of me on it if he gives me the phone, just to get control of it. So he hands it to me and I find a photo (self taken, cheesy smile) and imitate the photo with a cheesy grin to make the situation a bit lighter.... He didn't respond so I just put the phone in my pocket and thanked him profusely and made sure he knew that I knew he was in charge... I then went to bed and slept for 12 hours.... I went for a brief walk in the morning and got some photos of the derelict buildings. I'm not not sure why, but there are several large buidlings that look like they are under construction, and some are, but others look like they are being demolished and were once lived in. I'll have to get the story on them. You can see different rooms have been pained and there are still doors on some of the patios, but they are vacant. These are large buildings, some 20 stories high! There is a HUGE building next to the campus that was to be a 5 star hotel that is now about 3 acres of concrete jungle. I would love to jump the fence and have a look around it. I'll post a photo of it on Flickr. The presentations have been good, luckily I was an early keynote because there is a lot of duplication, which is good I suppose as we all have the same thoughts on ICT enabled Distance Learning...

The LONG road to Batumi....

Hi there, well, things are totally messed up. The driver picked up two "fake people" who wanted a ride to Batumi and said they were another person and me. I was waiting here and after about half an hour I saw another lady who looked like she was also waiting. She looked more professional than everyone else so I walked up to her with my laptop and the email message from the coordinator enlarged and pointed to the four other names on the list and asked if she was one of them. Sure enough she was... So luckily she had a phone number for the coordinator and was SMS'ing him about where the driver was. After a few hours they tracked him down and found out that he was already in Batumi, apparently it is only a few hours, not 13 (that was the only good news I got today). He had discovered at the border that he had the wrong people and threw them out and continued on to drop off the 3 people he did have who were correct. The driver was then dispatched to pick us up and apparently was really rude to this lady that is with me when she called him. She is from Belarus and we've had a nice chat and she's seen all our Sri Lanka photos. She was all dressed up and did not have anything to make herself comfortable. Luckily I had a blanket and pillow and some food and she was able to go to sleep. She had to fly to Moscow to get a visa and then to Istanbul and then to Trabzon... The airport emptied a few hours after we got there and even the security eventually left. I think Gajane was very happy I found her, she also didn't have any Turkish money so I bought her a tea. We started to watch Master and Commander but she fell asleep so I ended up watching it myself.

Okay, now it is 8:45 AM and I still haven't slept. I did manage a few minutes in the car, then we got pulled over for speeding. Then we stopped to switch drivers, they were both falling asleep. Then they stopped to pee. Then we stopped for Turkish customs, then Georgian Customs, and for gas twice... I couldn't sleep.... I even offered to drive as they kept falling asleep. When we got the hotel I started to work on the presentation and made a few changes that made me have to change all the slides text ( I made the slides bigger)... So, now I have to meet the group in 45 minutes and there isn't time to sleep. I did have a great shower, lots of pressure and hot water. There wasn't an iron in the room so, so I did the steam trick to my outfit, hope it is good enough...

Thursday, November 02, 2006

My Time in Istanbul

My time in Istanbul....

A few things struck me as being familiar, but in very different ways. The smells and the sounds were like so many places I've been before, but in a new combination. Sort of like eating a pizza with a bunch of new toppings such as fruit and nuts. Two things really are noticeable though, first, all the men seem to smoke, so wherever you are there is smoke, which isn't great. Luckily my room wasn't smoky. The second thing that is really noticeable is the lack of beggars. I wasn't asked once for money. Even in the Grand Bazar it wasn't that bad for people asking you to come into their shops, nothing like shopping in India. The spice market was really interesting, great smells and so many great treats to try. I was tempted to buy some of the food that was familiar to what Randa would always bring from Jordan that I haven't had since she sent some to Sri Lanka with Wayne and Delcie. They also had Turkish Delight (of course) which looked really good. I found that they make freshly squeezed pomegranate juice. They cut the top and the bottom of the fruit off, and then cut it in half. Then then have a plunger tool that squishes the juice all out and with two large and one small pomegranate they fill a glass for about a dollar. It is SOOO good, they also make a nice mix of pommegranate and grapefruit that I enjoyed as well. They sell donairs like they did in Cyprus and those were really good, and only cost about 75 cents!! I visited the Basilica Cistern which is an underground cistern that is beneath the city, it is incredible engineering dating back hundreds of years. It was actually lost for about a hundred years and then "rediscovered". I am leaving for Trabzon tonight and am sorry I only had half a day here, it is a wonderful city with lots of activity and lots to do. A definate place to return to with Cher and more time. Oh, I did see lots of cruise ship tour groups running through the city, I can't believe how they make them move! I did get a laugh as one tour group was being lead into a carpet shop where tea was already laid out for them... having been through that ritual once too many times I sympathized and wanted to tell them to turn around while they could, but everyone should experience it once - except dad! He'd end up buying the store - sort of like the apple cinnamon yoghurt of 1981! I'll post some photos on flickr as well... Rob